Summer travel season is upon us and first step in a successful trip is to pick a right place. As some of you are aware that there are places in this world, where they entice you through your children by parading unemployed Arts and Humanities majors dressed up in “Mouse” and “Duck” costumes with cute english names such as Mickey, Minnie and Donald. Beware, as these corporate folks are out there to relieve you off your children's college fund. Thankfully, there are also places in this world which can touch your soul and offer an adventure. Deep in the Peruvian forests at an altitude of 8000 ft. is such a place: The lost Inca city of Machu Picchu.
The most difficult step in going on such an adventure travel: Obtaining permission for it. Yes, Department of homeland, Ministry of vague and arbitrary authority is extremely fickle about granting such permissions. National debt might register an unhealthy increase and two presidential administrations might pass into history before your request comes up for consideration. If it is any consolation, remember that we are mere humans and the even the denizens of heavenly abodes are not immune to her vagaries. Consider Lord Shiva for example. We know that Lord Shiva was merrily hiking on the trails of Kailash Parbat, laughing at Nandi’s bull jokes, consuming a steady diet of Shiva’s Regal, breaking into Tandava at a whim, supporting then economically vital Trident manufacturing industry and BANG…..Parvati came along and changed his calendar. Nandi has been relocated to a location off the main premises ever since. As much as I would like to believe religious literature and its soap-operatic interpretation by a popular TV serial, I have a sneaking suspicion that when Lord Ram and brother Laxman were packing their allowed gear for a compulsory and unusually long Camping Trip, Sita walked into the room, stood by the door, hands on hips and delivered a monologue with timeless opening credits “It seems to me that you are least bothered by the fact that………….”.
The beauty and mystique of lost city of Machu Picchu is beyond words. Who were these mysterious and accomplished people ? How did they manage to build such a city at such an unlikely location ? How did they develop a technology so advanced for their time ? How did they device such an ingenious water system ? An agricultural system which became the pre-cursor to present day crop modification ? And their seemingly sudden disappearance with no written records ? There are so many questions and so few answers. One thing for sure is that these ancient cultures knew how to live in-sync with nature.
Though one can take a train to the nearest city of Agua Calientes (Hot Water) and then take a bus to Machu Picchu but that is not the Inca way. Total immersion calls for taking the Inca trail (a longer 4 days with overnight camping or a shorter 2 days without). Advantage of being on the trail is that besides spiritual cleansing of your soul, you are bound to get a pressure cleansing of all the McDonald’s and KFC grease accumulated in your pores. If nothing else, I recommend that instead of going by Bus, take a short two hour trail from Agua Calientes right upto the entrance of Machu Picchu. It passes through lush green, dense forests and early in the morning, misty clouds will be rising through the mountains gleaning the sweat off the tip of your nose.
Machu Picchu are Quechua words, which mean "Old Mountain". Care must be taken however to pronounce the second word as "PiK-chu" and not "Picchu" as we all do, especially Los Gringos. I would disclose the altered meaning with incorrect pronounciation only if it weren't for the fact that this Blog is intended to be read aloud to young children, distinguished guests and lady companions on friday evenings.
If you have a few hours to kill in Lima, I suggest a visit to Museo de Oro (Museum of Gold). Gold, which turned to be the curse for aboriginal south american cultures. Gold section of museum is wonderful and located in the basement. Real surprise however was the upper section of the building, which, unbeknownst to me was called Museo de Armas (Museum of weapons). Apparently, Gold and weapons go hand in hand, in museums or elsewhere. Collection of weapons and battle paraphernalia is large and exquisite. Some pieces hold the charm for the hands which once held those weapons (Napoleon, Robert E. Lee, Nizam of Hyderabad and Fidel Castro) and some simply for their age and worksmanship. A set of 16th century chinese daggers came with a short dynastic poem.
Al oir el canto del Gallo,
Se empieza la practica,
De la danza de la Espada.
(Upon hearing the song of the rooster, start the practice of the dance of the sword)
It seems to me that I have been underestimating my Español ability. Unlike the French nationals, who begged me to cease, switch to Deutsche, and never attempt vocalizing French again without prior written warnings, Los Peruanos showed no such reaction to my español. Of course I am using the word "ability" in a fairly loose sense, as the cause and effect correlation here can also be explained on the basis of national tolerance levels. Spanish, a musical languange with notes, tones, volume and gestures. One look at Gabriela Sabatini or Shakira and the dire need for a romance language becomes crystal clear. With evolution, languages struggle to add new words and to balance expression and subtlety. Allow me to illustrate by presenting you the "original meeting minutes" of Spanish Linguists, men who were charged with graceful evolution of español. Meeting took place to induct new spanish word for what became the modern day Handcuffs. (English translation is provided by yours truly)
¿qué es esta cosa con anillos de metal.
[What is this thing with rings of Metal ?]
No se. Algo nuevo cosa.
[I don't know. Some new thing.]
¿cuáles son sus usos.
[What are its uses ?]
No se completamente, pero me han dicho que es una cosa para dominar los hombres.
[I don't know completely but I have been told that this thing is to subdue men.]
No me digas (Miradas de sorpresa !!).
[Don't tell me (looking surprised!!)]
Si Señor, especialmente los hombres indisciplinados y revoltosos.
[Yes sir, especially unruly and naughty men.]
Intresante. Muy intresante (Miradas de sorpresa y interés !!)
[Interesting. Very interesting (Looking suprised and interested!!)]
No necesitamos palabra nuevo para esto. Ya tenemos una palabra para tal cosa (habla linguista viejo y sabio).[We don't need a word for that. We already have a word for such a thing (wise old linguist speaks)]
¿Tenemos. (muchas voces simultáneamente). [ We have? (multiple voices simultaneously)].
Si. Yo la llamo Esposa. [Yes. I call her Wife]
Hmmmm....Que bueno (muchas voces otra vez). [Hmmmm....that's good (multiple voices again).]
Vamos a decidir entonces. Esposa es la palabra. [Let's decide then. 'Esposa' is the word.]
And right there, a bold decision of profound subtlety was made, and left for posterity to awe and ponder. Esposa - Wife or Handcuffs - Same thing.
In Peru, a wise old Quechua man told me that Human War is always on. And most important war a human fights is when one is alone….a war with one's own self. The outcome however doesn't manifest until the last moments of one’s life. I presume that in the meantime, it is good to take time to do a fifteen mile hike in, around and sometimes atop the Peruvian mountains and forests. It is definitely a good location for shooting a war scene. Chirping birds, rain and gushing sound of Rio Urubamba (Urubamba river) far below provides a free background music for the scene. If not you, Peruvian economy is sure to come out a winner.
And last but not least, I always recommend carrying your own toilet paper. Perhaps I am just unlucky that one I bought was made from military surplus material. I am just guessing here but apparently military discontinued manufacturing Sabres and material was released for civilian use !!!!!
Click here for a Pictorial Perusal.
Hasta Luego y Buen Viajes (See you later and Happy Travels)
